From Persian kings having a signature scent to Marilyn Monroe declaring all she wore to bed was a “few drops of Chanel No. 5”, fragrance has long been an expression of identity. But in an age of oversharing, where people livestream their skincare routine or geotag their breakfast, has scent become the last luxury that can’t be screenshotted?
Why Niche Fragrances are the Last Secret Luxury
Words by
Clara Taylor
22nd July 2026
Niche fragrances are booming as people get territorial over their signature scent – maybe one of the last remaining luxuries you can't screenshot.
Marilyn Monroe's favourite Chanel No. 5.
Why do we see scent as an extension of self?
The notion that scent is an extension of self isn’t a concept forced upon us by the fragrance industry. It’s in fact science. Research from Professor Charles Spence, Head of Oxford's Crossmodal Research Laboratory, indicates that olfactory cues not only impact the way in which we are perceived, but also the way in which we perceive ourselves. The answer, perhaps, appeals to our base human instincts. Scent allows for expression without ever opening our mouths – communication using only the senses.
Marc-Antoine Barrois perfumes shown in the Piccadilly store.
Of course, the world’s leading noses are acutely aware of this phenomenon. Marc-Antoine Barrois, French couturier turned perfumier for his eponymous brand, believes: “Once you’ve found your perfume, you’ve found a part of your identity. It’s like having found or discovered a missing piece of yourself that fits with your personality and, at times, with your emotions.”
The exterior of the Marc-Antoine Barrois London store.
That identity, however, isn’t singular. Barrois’ own brother and Head of Operations, Quentin, highlights how within one fragrance, concentration can reveal different components of personality. Instead of opting to have the same perfume in different concentrations convey the same notes, just at different strengths, “for us, it’s a whole other way to view the fragrance”. And by extension, a whole other way to view yourself.
Why do people want to gatekeep their perfume?
If a fragrance can reveal so many layers of who you are, it's little wonder people are reluctant to give that knowledge away. Or as Nick Gilbert, scent designer and co-founder of OLFICTION, says, “it is natural to want to protect something that forms part of your identity – and not want other people to copy your style and personality”.
Perfume is largely accepted as an extension of self.
For quite some time now, sharing the name of a fragrance can feel as if handing over something much more revealing than simply a product recommendation. Just as you may feel protective about sharing a family recipe, which is inextricably wrapped up in emotion and personal memories, sharing a signature scent can feel like giving over a piece of a story you’ve spent years curating. After all, to find a scent that truly feels like you, it requires a level of self-awareness and self-assurance – a confidence to know who you are and be comfortable enough to project that outwards. Once you’ve done all that work, why would you give someone else the shortcut?
Similarly, while imitation may be the highest form of flattery, it’s a surefire route to ubiquity. And ubiquity simply isn’t cool. It can be taken as an indication of a lack of taste. That you cannot trust your own instincts, to be curious about the world around you, and most importantly, it points to an absence of authenticity. As a result, when you do settle on a fragrance that so perfectly exemplifies who you are, it can inspire quite the attachment. Barrois recounts that on the launch of the brand’s debut fragrance, B683 (the fact that his own childhood inspired this name tells you everything you need to know about the personal nature of scent), a friend admitted it’d be the one item they’d run into a burning building for.
Kingdom Scotland's Albaura Perfume.
It’s a sentiment Imogen Russon-Taylor, Founder of Kingdom Scotland, the nation’s first fragrance house, understands wholly: “The most extraordinary things in life are never stumbled upon – they are sought.” This is precisely why fragrance lovers are gatekeeping their scent – “not out of secrecy, they are guarding something sacred”.
Why are niche fragrances so popular right now?
Niche perfumes are becoming increasingly popular.
So, if ubiquity is the enemy of authenticity, it is little surprise that consumers are turning their backs on the more well-known brands (sorry Marilyn, sorry Chanel) in favour of something previously unheard of. Niche fragrances offer something mainstream bottles cannot: an almost guarantee that you’re the only person in the room wearing that specific scent. Personally, I cannot explain the satisfaction I get when I’m complimented on a perfume I got from a hotel in Paris more than ten years ago. Firstly, because it conjures fond memories of a trip taken with my family and secondly because I’d be absolutely floored to find out someone else had it today.
Gemma Lord, Buyer for allbeauty, echoes this, stating that she believes niche fragrance has absolutely exploded because “people are wanting something that actually means something”. In an ever-complicated world, we’re craving products that have a story attached, or which bring a nostalgia-induced sense of comfort
Niche fragrances also strip luxury back to its basic principles: exclusivity and bespoke craftsmanship. “They're harder to find, less well-known, and there is the 'insider' effect of knowing about something that other people don't,” Gilbert notes. It’s precisely that friction – that these are bottles that can’t simply be sourced in an airport duty-free – that makes them so appealing. Unlike a bag with a logo or a pair of sunglasses with an instantly recognisable frame, both of which can be saved in a social post and purchased seconds later, niche fragrance can only be discovered, never downloaded.
