Raymond Blanc: “I only fired Marco Pierre White Twice”

What was the first dish that made you want to become a chef?

Crêpes Suzette. I watched my mum make it growing up, but I had never dared to attempt something so ambitious myself. When I did try it, I made the pancakes first, which were delicious, and then prepared the sauce with Cointreau, cognac and a bit of orange juice. I made the mistake of flambé-ing in a Pyrex dish. It shattered into a million pieces; caramel went everywhere, all over the room. It was a total disaster, but from that moment I decided I’d get it right next time.

You’re self-taught yet were awarded your Michelin stars relatively quickly. Why do you think that was?

By the time I became a chef, I had already read all the great classics of French cuisine, food science, nutrition, farming and more. I was completely immersed in the world of food. With Le Manoir, the idea was simple: to create an environment of total joy and give strangers one of the best experiences of their lives. Where families and friends taste the food and say, “Oh mon Dieu”.

I started it in 1976 between an Oxfam and a ladies' underwear shop and just cooked my heart out. Drawing on my culture and what my mum had taught me, I created a quality bistro. The restaurant had cheap prints of Paris on the wall and an oven with no bottom, but in one year we got a Michelin star. Three years in, we got our second.

Who is the most intimidating person you’ve cooked for?

I’m not easily intimidated, but I could say Princess Diana. She was so lovely and ate with Mick Jagger. Other than that, maybe when I cooked for King Charles and Emmanuel Macron, because it was in the palace and outside of my usual environment.

You’ve spoken out before about kitchen bullies. Do you think the industry has got better at rooting them out and challenging that culture?

The industry is definitely better; however, in Michelin-starred restaurants, some people still can’t control their anger. Still, to this day, I can’t understand it. All my life, I’ve worked to create an environment that empowers young people. Le Manoir is like a nursery. We’ve trained dozens of Michelin-starred chefs, sommeliers and restaurateurs. If you come into my kitchen, you’ll hear silence. It’s focused; the passion is there. We work with each other, for each other. Anger can completely undermine that.

You stepped back recently from Le Manoir to become a lifetime ambassador. How did that feel, and what led to that decision?

A huge amount of preparation led up to it. You see, I established the values, the culture, the gardens – I was emotionally and artistically involved in every way I could be. After 41 years with two Michelin stars, I felt it was time to move on. I’ve been lucky to work with Belmond, an extraordinary group that has been brilliant with me. Together, we chose my successor, Arnaud Donckele. He’s a friend and a great craftsman; his team loves him and he shares my values, so our heritage will remain intact.

Is there anything on the menu that you’ve asked Arnaud to keep?

No, that’s his cuisine. I work with him; we speak once a week, but two people are in charge now. Belmond’s GM, Niall Kingston, who is a wonderful man I’ve worked with for seven years. He’s an Irish boy, loves the gardens and he’s a great communicator. And Arnaud. Together, I think they’ll do something really special.

You’ve worked with Heston Blumenthal, Marco Pierre White, Michael Caines…

No, they worked with me!

Would you let your former colleagues or students back into your kitchen today?

Yes, absolutely. I think it would be great fun. I was just with Heston for The Fat Duck's 20th anniversary; it was a joy! I would love to see Marco be a part of my cuisine again.

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Didn’t you fire him three times in a week?

Just twice; he’s allowed back now. We always have our banter, our differences, but Marco is an extraordinary chef. To win three Michelin stars by the age of 30 is incredible. His daughter actually also worked with me for three years.

What’s the most overrated aspect of British fine dining right now?

British chefs got it all wrong for many years because they didn’t have a food culture. They got nouvelle cuisine wrong, and fusion cuisine was a disaster; they mixed cuisines without respect for the cultures. The last disaster was molecular gastronomy. I was deeply involved early on, but most of the chefs didn't understand science, which created a major problem. But then they learned, and it's quite amazing to see these British chefs creating such high-quality cuisine. It’s a very British revolution, with a little help from the French.

How did your new collaboration with Paul come about?

Paul approached me, and I liked the idea. Gastronomy is everywhere, whether it’s a great bowl of soup in a little bistro or a three Michelin-starred meal. It’s about excellence. I live near Gail's, but I’ll always go the extra mile to Paul for the quality of craft. Taste a croissant at any other bakery, then taste one at Paul, and you’ll understand exactly what I mean.

I’m a Frenchman, I’m not a big sandwich person, but I love what we’ve created together. The roast beef sandwich features a celeriac roulade. It’s spicy, has beautiful crunchy flavours, and, of course, is served in a baguette rustique, the best bread. I think it can be a real treat. You can turn something inexpensive into a beautiful moment by sitting down and enjoying a great sandwich.

Where is your favourite place to travel?

Obviously, I love France. I’m lucky to have a place between Nice and Villefranche. It’s a beautiful region with great restaurants. I’m 150 per cent French: 100 per cent from my parents and 50 per cent from my British friends.

What does luxury mean to you?

Truth and authenticity. Too often, people wrap luxury in gold. It’s a beautiful dress, handbag, or even a glorious meal, but beneath it all is a lot of toxicity. I believe luxury should be responsible and embrace true values.