Wheels of fortune have largely fallen out of favour. The vision of Phillip Schofield playing ‘Spin To Win’ on morning TV so that someone can afford their heating bill was beyond even the twisted mind of Charlie Brooker. However there is one wheel well worth spinning: the steak roulette at the new M Restaurant in Canary Wharf. For £68, you can opt to take your chances, potentially snagging a Kobe steak worth £150 or, as a worse case scenario, enjoying an Argentinean ribeye worth £40.50 - no rump on offer here. It’s a meat raffle 2022 style - and it characterises a lot about this latest edition of the hugely successful M template: a place that wants everyone to have a good time. A steakhouse that, rather than hitting you over the head with the sheer macho meatiness of it all, is actually an inventive gastronomic fun-filled destination in its own right.
This much delayed opening has finally been unveiled and is well worth the wait. Housed in the 226M high, diamond shaped Newfoundland Quay, it is one of the most spectacular settings in London. The interiors have taken design inspiration from private yachts, Slim Aarons' shots of Hotel du Cap Eden-Roc and the kind of life of affluent privilege one might enjoy as a Monte Carlo resident in 1975. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the room with light: Agate Geode Porcelain flooring resembles the sparkling Cote D’Azur. It's so effective you feel like the mighty Cobia fish on display could have been caught from a line from the top deck.
A recent evening began in tremendous fashion, beginning with delicious Pink Negronis (Mirabeau Dry Rosé Gin, Campari, Italicus, Belsazar Rose Vermouth) and dangerously drinkable Melonade (Mirabeau Dry Rosé Gin, Melonade, St Germain Prosecco, Double Dutch tonic). Visiting on a midweek night, Canary Wharf seems to be back in full swing - as the sun set, orders of fabulous cuts of Wagyu stored in beeswax, ‘thousand layer’ chips, firecracker sauce came in quick succession. There are some stonking new additions to the menu - notably the breaded rib of veal, pan fried halibut with courgette puree and the lobster and pumpkin but rest assured, the signature dishes remain the kind of steak that simply is without equal. Deserts came in the form of a 'Snickers' (a chocolate, nougat and Dulce ice cream tranche) and a fine French cheeseboard. Our waitress Elizabeth Onasanya was as effervescent as she was knowledgeable.
This deserves to be an absolute roaring success. A bold brilliant restaurant that feels like the kind of futuristic setting that all of Canary Wharf promised. They’re even doing breakfasts to go downstairs in Le Petit M complete with Wagyu sausage sandwiches and speciality Rueben bagels. And now it’s on the Elizabeth line? There’s absolutely no excuse.