Hotel of the Week: PAN Treetop Cabins, Norway

What makes PAN Treetop Cabins special?

It’s not every day you arrive in a forest, climb up a jet-black spiralling staircase and open the door to a snug cottage-like cabin, overlooking lofty treetops and gliding birds, but that’s what happened when I arrived at PAN, in eastern Norway. We had come from Oslo the same afternoon, driving past a few subdued towns and through vast stretches of farmland dotted with simple, rustic houses (known as hytte) before finding ourselves at the forest’s edge – the portal to the ancient woods that count wolves and bears among their inhabitants.

Once we had meandered through the forest’s rocky terrain, we caught sight of the cabin we were to call home for three nights. Hovering above us, it’s etched in the sky both dramatically and serenely at the same time, with its sharp triangular roof jutting out in statement. As I take in my surroundings, I notice we’re in total seclusion, with just the gentle swaying of the spruce, pine and birch trees that envelop us to keep us company.

What is the cabin like inside?

Once we were up high, looking down felt a little at odds with my earthly instinct to be firmly rooted to the ground, but that only added to the sense of being plunged into adventure from the get-go. Inside, the cabins are made entirely of pale-toned pine wood, whose previous life as trees is witnessed in the magnificent oval-shaped rings stretched out across the angled walls.

The natural interiors and soaring windows keep the cabin bright and airy, an intelligent illusion for a small 40m² space, that feels generous with a living room and fireplace, fully equipped kitchen and bathroom all neatly packed into the ground floor. In Scandinavian style, it’s cleanly compact, with everything holding its own use, and small comforts – such as sheep wool topping wooden stools and warm, low-lit lanterns to make the off-grid stay a romantic one.

A standout feature of the lodge for me was the double bed, that up a vertical ladder is nestled towards the cabin’s roof and appropriately cloud-like in comfort for the elevated sleep. We found it drew us in for naps each afternoon, and I slept the best I had in a long while.

What’s the food and drink like?

As a camping experience, PAN is not somewhere to expect to dress up and dine out – all the cooking is done in your cabin. Each day, picnic baskets arrived with pre-prepared ingredients, which meant the hard part of cooking was not so hard at all – such as pizza doughs and chopped toppings or pancake mix and jams – all homemade and heartening. There’s no need to leave to do any shopping, and our fridge was packed each day with salamis, cheeses, fruits, chutneys, freshly baked bread and more – as if we were hunkering down for the season.

What experiences can guests expect?

Just a few metres away from our cabin, a wooden three-quarter frame with a door opens up – like Narnia – to a hot tub on the other side, which we’re told by the owner is best enjoyed at night-time. By the time we visit, it’s pitch black, and we are met with the water illuminated by turquoise lighting as the jets stream, with glowing black lanterns dotted along the wooden shelves. One of our most wild feeling experiences, we’re at ease in the knowledge any treacherous animal stays far away from humans here – it’s completely safe.

In the daytime, we find we can follow either our left or right path, which both further fork out into tracks, to explore the forest that sprawls out for 20 miles of rich wildlife. Despite appearances, the cabins are not in total isolation and we only cycle down a few tracks to pass a couple of houses, and to land at the road that takes us to a nearby town. We spend one early evening venturing to one of the many long lakes, for a canoe experience, with dusk the prime time for beaver spotting. Shy in nature, we just caught the back of one, but the tranquil lull of the water was an enjoyable way to see more of the forest.

While we came in late summertime, I can imagine the allure of the forest in the winter, with snowfall and northern lights enlivening the landscape to a new level. During this period, guests can take guided wolf walks, following the sound of the enigmatic howler for themselves, as well as go cross-country skiing or take horse and sleigh rides.

Who is behind Pan Treetop Cabins?

PAN came into existence through husband-and-wife team Kristian Rostad and Christine Mowinckel, on their forest estate. Christine greeted us on arrival, transporting us there and enlightening us on everything from the hundreds of bird species and placid lakes to visit to the stories of the ancient Finn settlers from the 16th century. Anything but complacent, she showed a wonder for her homeplace, still finding new discoveries today, such as an inscription of a vulva on the wall – a mark of the Forest Finns centuries ago – as she enjoyed a glass of wine one Sunday afternoon.

It’s clear how much she cares about the project, and the couple’s work, along with architect Espen Surnevik and engineer Finn-Erik Nilsen, has won awards for its pioneering vision. The cabins, for example, stabilise themselves on steel tripod pillars, meaning they can be removed from the ground without a trace.

SPHERE’s Top Tips for a Top Stay

• Go to the hot tub at night for an extra wild experience, then cosy up in your cabin with a fire

• While the baskets are generously filled, you are camping, so if you want specific treats like wine or chocolate, pack them beforehand

• Enjoy the sauna, a new project arriving soon.

Prices from £348 GBP per night, panhytter.no