Mourning Chef Skye Gyngell of Spring

Having had lunch at the delightful Spring just a couple of weeks ago, it is with great sadness to learn of the death of Skye Gyngell – one of the most acclaimed chefs in Britain and a leading voice in sustainable dining.

Gyngell was not just an exceptionally talented chef, but also a cook, as she liked to call herself, who touched so many lives in so many ways. Long before “seasonal”, “biodynamic” and “zero-waste” became part of the culinary lexicon, Gyngell championed environmentally minded kitchens and thoughtful sourcing. Through her warmth, her conviction and her unwavering passion, she became an inspiration to those who worked alongside her in her favourite place, the kitchen.

Spring – her first and only culinary creation entirely her own – is a masterpiece. It mirrors the classical elegance and soaring, sprightly interiors of Somerset House, within which it quietly glows. The food is characteristically bright, delicate and grounded in the seasons; and the restaurant is known in particular for its pioneering Scratch Menu, which Gyngell created to transform would-be food waste into inventive new dishes. During my recent visit, pearl barley and mussels risotto followed by squash with kale and lentils arrived on luminous plates against crisp white tablecloths. Both dishes I tried on the lunch menu were earthy, autumnal, elegantly healthy and, of course, exceptionally tasty – the epitome of Gyngell’s style.

Gyngell’s culinary path to Spring was long and deeply lived. Born in Australia, she trained in both Paris and London, and always credited her time under Fergus and Margot Henderson at The French House as profoundly shaping – their refusal to follow trends and belief in cooking well, simply, left a lasting imprint. After stepping away from kitchens to raise her children and serve as food editor at Vogue, she returned to cooking in a small shed in the garden centre at Petersham Nurseries. From these humble beginnings grew something immensely popular, and a Michelin star – which famously led to her departure as she felt guest expectations became too high.

At Spring, she cemented her mission to work closely with British farmers and biodynamic growers, in particular partnering with the 16-acre Fern Verrow farm in Hertfordshire. The restaurant also drew produce from Heckfield’s farm, where Gyngell served as Culinary Director. Under her guidance, Spring became the first restaurant in the UK to eliminate all single-use plastics from its kitchen in 2019 – a landmark achievement born of her quiet but determined leadership.

In recent years, mentoring the next generation of chefs, waiters and growers became central to Gyngell’s work. She believed that true sustainability meant caring not only for the environment, but also for the people who bring a restaurant to life. “With a larger team,” she once said, “my desire to be a good boss has grown; I want to teach and train staff, and for them to think of Spring as a happy place to work.”

Gyngell died after a rare type of cancer, leaving behind a legacy defined by integrity and vision. She leaves an inspiration – not only in what she cooked – but in how she lived and in the future she encouraged the world of food to imagine.