Phoebe Philo is Back (Well Nearly)

Words by
Sphere Editors

13th February 2023

It has been five years since she designed a collection, but at last fans of Phoebe Philo have something to look forward to. This September the reclusive and notoriously media shy designer will unveil her first collection under her own name via

Normally it's click-bait catwalk moments or Rihanna at the Super Bowl Halftime show rocking a new baby bump that causes social media to melt-down. 

Not so when Phoebe Philo and her fans - "Philophiles" - are involved. All it took was a single Instagram post at the weekend, below, (since taken down, of course), announcing the launch of her website in September 2023 to cause a frenzy.

Within 24 hours of the announcement 128,000 people had followed the brand. Within three days, 162,000 people were signed up and waiting for the next droplet of news to come from the designer who during her tenure at Celine between 2009-2017 defined an era of laid back luxurious style that captured a generation of women, and hasn't been matched since.

News of Phoebe Philo's eponymous line first surfaced in July 2021 with a statement that LVMH group were taking a minority stake. Philo also noted her wish ‘to be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms’. The initial launch was slated to take place last year. 

Here we are in 2023, and there is still more than six months to wait for Phoebe Philo the label, as well as Phoebe Philo the woman to emerge again.

Since 2017, when she walked away from Celine, the landscape of fashion has transformed, with seismic shifts in body positivity and diversity making fashion more representative of the world at large. Will she be addressing a broader range of sizes and shapes in her new collection? Undoubtedly. Philo has always been a designer concerned with the female gaze, rather than the male.

So what else can we expect?  When she launched her first Celine collection in 2009 Philo said, “it felt better for me to work on an idea of a wardrobe than too much trend. I worked hard to create things that stand the test of time.”

As anyone who owns a Phoebe Philo designed item of clothing, whether it is from during her eight year tenure at Celine, or earlier when she headed up Chloe, her clothes - whether slouchy tailoring, Crombie-style coats, or chunky funnel-necked knits - have an insouciant quality which don't date, and don't break.

For now, Philophiles have to wait first until July, when "registration opens," and again until September when they will be able to buy the designer's clothes once again.