Hirsh Jewellery: Mayfair’s Most Hidden Gem

Behind a discreet dark-blue door lies a wealth of outstanding jewellery, mostly unique pieces containing rare, unusual gemstones personally sought out by the store’s owners, Jason and Sophia Hirsh. This by-appointment townhouse in Conduit Street gives great insight into the understated, very word-of-mouth world of Hirsh.

This is where you come to buy a ready-to-wear item — but with highly individual gemstones. This is also the place to come if you want to discuss the commission of a bespoke piece. It will be made upstairs in one of the few full-scale Mayfair workshops, occupying a former couture house that has the north-lighted windows required by both fine jewellery craft and couture needlework.

Beyond the ground-floor boutique, tables allow clients and jewellers to consult over sketches and handpicked potential stones; a relaxation area and garden encourage contemplation, over coffee or Champagne. Upstairs, in an elegant salon with ceiling-to-floor windows, clients can try stones in natural light or consult a library of jewellery books for inspiration. In the evening it becomes a charming setting for events where the owners get to know their clients and their individual jewellery wishes.

Along with original art and sculpture, the townhouse is decorated with fabulous natural gem crystals such as amethyst or citrine, leaving no doubt about Hirsh’s priorities. Also passionate about fine, locally made luxury goods, the couple are developing a collection of handmade leather goods and objets d’art.

Although the brand has a relatively recent history it has come a long way since it was founded in 1980 by Jason’s father Anthony, an adventurous jeweller who was one of the first to see the potential popularity of pink diamonds, such as the pink diamond brooch, above.

Jason learned the ropes from his father; his wife Sophia is a third-generation gemmologist and they make a formidable team, with a knowledge of gemstones and jewellery-making rare among London family jewellers. Always seeking the unique and beautiful, they travel widely to the world’s best gem fairs, quickly adopting the latest rarities that catch the connoisseur’s eye such as colour-changing Alexandrite, spinels in various shades, or chameleon diamonds, and have built one of the largest collections of natural-coloured gems in Europe.

Every gem used, as in the engagement ring above and the bangles below, is personally chosen by Jason or Sophia and, whichever variety it is, it must have some special quality of character or individuality, as well as being a superb example of its kind. This gives creative inspiration for a design, whether it is an unusually shaped stone that suggests an equally unusual design, or fabulous colours, or even a colour-changing effect, when they painstakingly search out subsidiary stones that complement and bring out the main shade. This interest is reflected in the crystals and geodes that decorate the townhouse — collecting them is one of the couple’s favourite hobbies.

Jason and Sophia Hirsh, Hirsh Jewellery

Which comes first with a new piece — the design or the stone?

It can be both! When we see a gem, we instantly envision a piece of jewellery but sometimes we purchase an amazing, unusual gem that we fall in love with, without a specific piece in mind. We know that eventually it will feature in the perfect piece. We are currently creating a unique Dragonfly brooch with an exquisite kite-shaped pink diamond from our collection. We think up the designs and our designer hones these into detailed drawings for the atelier. We love the collaborative process to which all the team contribute.

How do you advise a client on choosing a piece?

Our clients are often celebrating a special occasion, from engagements to personal achievements. Jewellery is so emotive and our pieces become future heirlooms, so above all we want clients to choose something that they love and that brings them joy.

Which is your favourite coloured gemstone, and why?

Sophia: It depends on my mood. I love rubies, which appear in our snowflake pendant (above), sapphires and tourmalines, but I think I love bi-colour gems such as watermelon tourmalines or my bi-colour sapphire ring even more. Some of my favourite pieces is our black opal, emerald, sapphire pendant with earrings, (featured above).

Jason: Tough question for a gem lover, but I think Alexandrites. I find them so mysterious and I love that change from purple to green depending on the light. They’re a real favourite — I have built up a huge collection.

Hirsh London