Asian food in all its myriad forms has been in vogue in London of late and the outpost of Oxford’s Malaysian restaurant Zheng proves that the hunger continues. Here, aubergine cooked with chilli warns of being very spicy, yet it is perfectly manageable and has an autumnal robustness. Beef rendang is mellow with coconut, and its chicken take on Sichuanese green beans with pork is a marriage of textures. The sambal chicken with dried shrimp chilli paste also has no need of a hankie to mop the brow, but its sauce is satisfyingly rich and spiced.
For Chelsea, Zheng is reasonably priced — mains are around £13 — and offers an interesting riff on a thrilling cuisine.