Clocking the trends: The best horology from SIHH 2019

Words by
Jemima Sissons

31st January 2019

From sturdy greys to whimsical multihued timepieces, we dissect some of our favourite themes from the Geneva watch show to discover what is hot in horology

With the last showing for Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille and a few brands who were absent - such as Van Cleef & Arpels - there were also some stellar new faces such as Hermès. Kicking off was a strong, dynamic theme of GREYS - from the stunning meteorite faced Altiplano from Piaget, to Hèrmes’ delights. These included the Arceau 78, with grained anthracite dial, lending it an almost industrial feel (in the chicest possible way). Also from the soigné french outfitters, comes the Arceau L’heure de la lune, a haute horologic timepiece with moon complication.

Keep your eyes peeled for the tiny Pegasus. With A Lange & Söhne’s elegant Zeitwork Date, Montblanc’s Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon and strong contenders from Vacheron Constantin, Panerai and Jaeger Le Coultre’s show stopping Hybris Mechanica Grand Complication with silver dial, expect to see this adaptable colour on stylish wrists this coming year.

Making an appearance throughout the show was AVENTURINE - with Girrard-Perregaux leading the charge with the three releases from their Cat’s Eye collection. The Majestic in a 40mm x 34.7mm pink gold case with sixty brilliant-cut diamonds set on the bezel. The second of the new trio is the Cat’s Eye Celestial. The 35mm x 30.4mm pink gold case and the aventurine dial is festooned with a moon phase decoration with a mother-of-pearl moon. Finally, the Cat’s Eye Tourbillon comes with a bezel  set with fifty-four baguette-cut diamonds, with a further rose-cut diamond in the crown, and thirty-six baguette-cut diamonds on the aventurine dial.

The groundbreaking CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet is rewriting the marque’s DNA - and the crowing glory in their SIHH collection is the Perpetual Calendar, powered by the calibre 5134, is comes in pink gold. It stands out with its dark blue aventurine dial mimicking a starry sky. 

Finally, bringing some levity to some uncertain political climes, the theme of FUN pervaded. Nobody could have failed to notice Richard Mille’s buoyant Bon Bon series - ten takes on sweet treats such as cupcakes and candy sticks, each with a run of 30. With pots of sweets to keep hungry watch lovers fuelled, it was also one of the more popular stands at the show.

Cartier wowed as ever with seem stunning collections, but their Panthere de Cartier bracelets, with an elegantly knowing feline wrapped around the wrist, is one of the most uplifting pieces this year.