Richard Corrigan's Polytunnels Masterclass

For the uninitiated, what do polytunnels give you that a traditional kitchen garden can’t?

There’s always something good to find in the polytunnels. You don’t get that out in  the open where so many plants can’t survive the cold, wet weather (there’s a lot of that  in Ireland!) With the warmth comes flavour and opportunity – aubergines, peppers and melons, for example. A polytunnel gives these plants a chance to grow, which gives us so much more to play with in the kitchen. 

Can you walk us through a year inside yours?

It does feel like you’re working in your own little world, slightly ahead of the seasons outside. As winter starts to loosen its grip, the very first seeds going in are tomatoes, leeks and peppers – they take the longest to grow, and the tunnel’s warmth gives you a head start. As spring turns to summer, we continue to nurture what we already have and sow more until the tunnels are packed with produce, from tomatoes and basil to hazelnuts, strawberries and lettuce. By the time autumn is near, things slow down again, and the final crops – such as winter spinach and oriental salad leaves – are the hardier types that see you through until the tunnels quieten. Then we start the cycle again!

Do you have any advice for first-timers?

You can grow so much from a bright windowsill. For example, Little Gem lettuce and radishes are perfect for plucking and adding to a simple spring or summer salad. You can also use makeshift covers on your beds, which you remove while watering. 

You cook what you grow. How has that changed the way you build dishes or think about seasonality?

Cooking straight from the kitchen garden changes your whole perspective. You don’t think about the dish until you know what you have to work with. It brings an exciting, unknown element. You can’t overthink it; you must let whatever you’ve grown take you by the hand. I like the simplicity this leads to – dishes are responsive and humble, but even more delicious because they’re created around whatever is at its absolute best in that moment. 

Do you have any favourite ingredients? 

The ingredients that excite me are the simple ones. I love hearty, straightforward cooking, and anything grown in our kitchen garden is welcome on my plate! Aubergine can be tricky to grow because it’s picky about its environment, and you have to get beyond its toughness when cooking it. But once you’ve done this, it’s utterly delicious. I love using it in a caponata and serving it with some decent fish. 

What’s one golden rule for home cooks using just-picked vegetables? 

Pick and pickle! You can never over-produce, and just about everything can be preserved for something delicious later on in the year. Our team at Virginia Park Lodge (the former 18th-century estate Richard has owned since 2014 in Cavan, Ireland, known for its sustainability ethos) pickle the beetroot leaves – they make a great addition to heavier dishes. 

And equally, what’s the one thing that makes you wince when you see it done?

Overly eager lawn mowing. Aside from looking too uniform, it also removes all the dandelions that feed our lovely bees. Keep a corner of the garden left untouched so the bees can continue to do their work! 

Richard’s Homegrown festival will be held at Virginia Park Lodge between 16 and 19 October. Visit virginiaparklodge.com