When you live in a city that has a new restaurant opening every other day, it’s hard to feel the need to leave to go in search of a good meal. Craving a 15-course Japanese tasting menu? No problem, there are twelve to choose from. Fancy trying a fusion of food from a few far-flung places? Easily done.
Hotel of the Week: The Great Bustard
Words by
Clara Taylor
22nd January 2026
Gastronomes are increasingly being tempted outside their cities to experience new culinary destinations. With restaurants with rooms on the rise, The Great Bustard offers the perfect blend of fine dining and boutique hospitality, where locally sourced produce meets countryside charm.
The Great Bustard Exterior. ©Dave Watts.
The Courtyard, The Great Bustard. ©Dave Watts.
Yet despite the collection of culinary riches on our doorstep, there’s still the urge to venture off and sample something different. Perhaps it’s simply human nature that is driving the rise of restaurants with rooms – the recent phenomenon whereby destination restaurants expand to offer overnight stays. One such stay, The Great Bustard, can be found in the quiet Wiltshire village of Great Durnford.
The converted barns at The Great Bustard.
In what was formerly The Black Horse Inn, The Great Bustard brings fresh energy to the stunning but sleepy village. Set amongst thatched cottages and the undulating chalk downs, the natural beauty of the area is evident. There was, however, previously very little to do in the village bar see the venerable, albeit beautiful, Norman church. Now, people, much like myself, come from miles to eat, drink and slumber.
The Rooms
The Cuckoo room, The Great Bustard.
Despite being named after the British bird hunted to extinction, The Great Bustard does not have the air of the Schöffel and plus fours-clad countryside set that it nods to. Either side of a short gravel drive sit three converted wooden barns, housing the ten guest rooms, the pub, the restaurant, and the private dining room. After what was probably the quickest check-in process I’ve experienced – I just gave my name at the bar - my bags were immediately taken out of my hands and I was walked to “Cuckoo”, my room.
Surprisingly, it’s much more modern than expected. Up in the roof of the barn, the sloped walls are colour-drenched in sage green and accented by wooden beams. The airy interiors are more Scandinavian than Salisbury, thanks to the minimalist approach – a neutral colour palette, cool-toned wood, orb ceiling lamp shade and large fiddle-leaf fig plant.
Red Kite Room. ©Dave Watts.
The bed is the sort that has you re-contemplating your past purchases, questioning why you don’t have one of these at home. Super king or possibly even Emperor-sized, it comes with four large feather pillows and a weighty duvet that soothes even the most overwrought nervous systems. Thoughtful touches – a dressing table, coffee station and blackout blinds – are scattered around the room, making it clear that creating an environment for genuine rest is as important as the look.
Bathroom. ©Dave Watts.
The bathroom continues the understated, contemporary feel. Soft towels, generous surfaces and strong lighting make it as practical as it is aesthetically pleasing. Finished in equally cool stone tones, the walk-in rain shower has excellent pressure and is stocked with the Great Durnford Estate’s own beauty range, inspired by its kitchen garden. Helpfully, these are available to buy from the hotel’s quaint “deli” which has shelves upon shelves of the natural and organic shampoos, conditioners, balms, candles and more.
The Food
The Dining Room, The Great Bustard.
It’s abundantly clear that the food is the big draw here. And for good reason. While more casual meals can be had fireside in the pub, the real culinary experience is to be had in the adjacent dining room. As we’re in the heart of the British countryside, it’s no surprise that Head Chef Jordan Taylor’s ethos is very much farm-to-table, reliant on the best West Country producers. In fact, every seasonal ingredient listed is sourced directly from the Great Durnford Estate.
The Cep, Wiltshire Truffle and Parmesan Velouté Linguini.
As someone who could snack all day, I’m delighted when our lovely waitress arrives tableside with a tray of Amuse Bouchés. Not least because it features one of my favourite things in the world: bread and Marmite. Of course, it’s much more upscale than my morning toast. We’re encouraged to lather the whipped Marmite butter across the fluffy honey and sea salt fresh bread, which also dunks beautifully in the cheddar and roast potato velouté.
The food at The Great Bustard.
Although the food definitely is of the modern British persuasion, this, as ever, translates to a melting pot of cuisines. Offerings like the braised Durnford lamb, slow-cooked egg, and soldiers are distinctly British, but there are European accents across most of the other dishes. The beautifully creamy and earthy Wiltshire truffle and cep linguini and the celeriac pithivier are perfect examples. The latter being my main of choice and one I certainly didn’t regret. The roasted yeast sauce brought a deep, nutty flavour that cuts beautifully through the buttery pithivier pastry. My guest, on the other hand, opted for the braised Durnford lamb belly, which was spoon-soft and deeply succulent. It was made even more interesting by the accompanying caramelised shallot tart and anchovy tapenade.
Whiskey Sour. ©Dave Watts.
The wine list is extensive. As with any estate, you'd expect the cellars to be well-stocked. And well-stocked they are. The restaurant has access to thousands of bottles from The Great Durnford Manor, including own labels like the Otarda red, which translates as Great Bustard in Italian and comes from the owners' sister estate in Tuscany. It pairs fantastically with the game dishes. The cocktail list is equally bountiful, featuring all the classics, but Bustard-ised. I go for the Paloma, which Bustard-ised, also includes white chocolate. It works.
Bellies full and the only patrons left, we shake our heads when offered a dessert. Thankfully, our waitress didn’t buy it and sent a platter of petit fours our way. A piece of Wiltshire’s finest fudge, a tangy sour jelly, rich dark chocolate truffle and crisp biscotti later, we roll back to our room, ready to crash out on our heavenly bed.
Wellness
When I checked in, I clocked that the wellness rooms were above the pub. Obviously, I was sceptical about whether deep relaxation could actually be achieved with the pub’s bustle as a background soundtrack. My worries were quashed when the lovely Christina led me up the stairs for my 60-minute full-body massage. I couldn’t hear a peep.
The Treatment Room at The Great Bustard.
I say the lovely Christina, because of her magical, and I mean magical, hands. As someone who has a poor habit of hunching over a laptop, my upper back was such a collection of knots that tension often feels like a permanent part of my posture. With a combination of scented oils, gliding movements and a (requested) pressure so deep I’m convinced she was using her elbows at points, the tension melted away. Those 60 minutes simply slipped away.
The massage is just one of many treatments available. Others include organic facials, manicures, pedicures and something called a solstice ritual – a full body exfoliation and hydrating massage presumably referencing the nearby Stone Henge.
Who’s Who
Head Chef Jordan Taylor at work.
No request is too small, yet there’s not a suffocating sensation of eyes permanently on you, trying to anticipate your every need. Under the guidance of General Manager, Phil Bendall, guests are allowed to breathe while still feeling well-looked after. The food is, of course, a huge draw for The Great Bustard. Head Chef, Jordan Taylor, first learnt to cook at home with his family. A love of the outdoors, fishing, foraging and cooking over open campfires heavily influenced his cooking style and are clearly identifiable across the seasonal menu.
