5 Minutes with Manteca's Chris Leach
Words by
Clara Taylor
18th September 2026
We sit down with the man behind Manteca, London's buzziest nose-to-tail Italian-ish restaurant.
I’ve always loved anything creative and I especially loved the craft of making things. When I finished my degree, I did a little freelance illustration work, but as soon as I started working in a kitchen, I fell in love with the lifestyle – the pace of being in a kitchen, being part of a team. It’s definitely buzzier. There’s a real camaraderie to it.
Chris Leach, co-founder and chef, Manteca. ©Mariell Lind Hansen.
Are any of your illustrations in the restaurant?
I designed two of the labels for our house wines and one for our vodka infused with salami trim. I drew a pig’s head on that label as a nod to the sign that hangs outside the restaurant.
Your wife runs the wine programme at the restaurant. What’s it like working together?
Haha, we don’t work together the whole time, so it’s manageable.
No clashing personalities?
Not at work.
You held your wedding lunch at the restaurant last year. What was on the menu?
It was beautiful. Loads of things from our salumeria: focaccia, ricotta. It was in the summer, so we had a really fresh tomato salad from Flourish Farm and pig skin ragu. We also had duck ragu for our pasta course, followed by beef and turbot.
You’ve said you were a fan of The Naked Chef when you were younger. What’s your favourite cooking show now?
The Naked Chef kind of blew up when I was in school. It really ignited a real love of cooking – wanting to try it at home. Now, I don’t watch as much TV anymore, but there are some really good things on YouTube right now.
A selection of house salumi.
How do you feel about the whole chef influencer phenomenon?
It’s a massive part of what we do now. Some of them cook really great food on Instagram and some are just home cooks. I think what the likes of Mob created makes it really accessible for people at home to make good food.
Manteca’s now won quite a few awards. What’s changed since the early Penny Street days?
I don’t think we’ve intentionally changed; the original ideas have just evolved. We still aim to make everything from scratch – everyone learns a lot from that process. Take our ricotta dish, for example. It went from being served with vegetables or a garnish to focaccia with whipped ricotta instead of butter or olive oil and a plate of salumi at the start of the meal.
Fazzoletti with duck ragu.
Which kitchen has taught you the most?
Pitt Cue helped define my direction. It was a tiny kitchen with three people, two smokers and a grill. We were super busy trying new things out in a small space, dealing with whole animals, working with farms and going on supplier trips. It was a great time, for sure.
What originally drew you to a nose-to-tail ethos?
I learnt early on what you can do with a whole pig, but then also how to buy from and build up relationships with farmers and butchers. It pushes you creatively – rather than ordering 50 pork chops to put that one cut on the menu, we get a whole pig. You have to consider how all the different parts can be cooked, which keeps you on your toes creatively.
The Manteca dining tables. ©Mariell Lind Hansen.
Small plates have somewhat fallen out of favour recently. What keeps you committed to that way of eating?
I think it's a nice way of eating – to order lots of things and share. It's also the way I like to cook and eat. When I’m at home with my family, there are always lots of plates of food on the table, and everybody helps themselves rather than having four plates of the same thing.
Manteca was your first foray into Italian-ish cooking. Do you think you’ve been able to add to the cuisine as an outsider?
Absolutely, because we’re not bound by tradition. I like the breadth of Italian food, particularly pasta, and using it as a vehicle to bring in a lot of other flavours. It keeps things exciting.
Which is your favourite Italian regional cuisine?
Emilia Romana. You’ve got fresh pasta, cured meats and obviously great cheeses.
Would you ever consider a second site?
Yes, definitely. There’s nothing in the pipeline right now, but I’m open to it.
The counter at Manteca. ©Anton Rodriquez.
You've cited buzzy restaurants in New York and LA as inspiration. What's the biggest difference between those dining scenes and the London?
I think New York and London have a lot of similarities. They eat later there than we do, and in LA they have big spaces, lots of people, and valet service. What they do really well is just the vibe over there, but I'm not sure the food’s better. I think the produce is better in Europe, for sure.
Which other David Carter restaurant is your favourite?
I just went to KID the other day. It’s very, very good.
The Manteca exterior. ©Anton Rodriguez.
Best meal you've eaten that wasn't your own cooking?
The first time I went to Noma was pretty special. It really opened my mind. The first five courses had no cutlery – you’re in a three-star restaurant using your fingers!
Manteca is in a former Pizza Express. What’s your favourite Pizza Express menu item?
It has to be dough balls.
The classic tonnarelli cacio e pepe.
What’s your favourite London neighbourhood restaurant?
Finish the sentence. Luxury to me is…
Very long lunches with childcare sorted.
Fritti from the new Sunday menu.
Visit mantecarestaurant.co.uk
