The New Global Fashion Capitals

Fashion has long had its capital cities, where style is the very lifeblood of the metropolis. Think the golden era of Paris, where Dior, Saint Laurent and Chanel held their first trunk shows in gilded salons. London, with a wide-eyed Twiggy trotting about the streets; the Studio 54 disco-chic from New York; or the timeless tailoring of Milan.

But the fashion world order is shifting. After decades of dominance, the supremacy of the Big Four is waning. Current economic pressures in the West have led to a downturn in the luxury market, while in Asia and the Middle East, growth surges. Consequently, we’re entering an exciting era where the fashion establishment fragments, and new style hubs emerge. Places like Lagos, for example, where couture is crafted using centuries-old techniques, or Seoul, where fashion and technology are inextricably intertwined, are coming to the fore. As the old guard makes way for the new, these are the cities leading the new fashion frontier. 

Lagos: Handwoven to High Fashion

Nicknamed the “New York of Africa,” Lagos has always held strong at the heart of pan-African fashion. Beautifully bright and bold traditional dress is embedded in its heritage, from ornately embroidered Komole occasion wear to artfully knotted Gele headwear. Shade Thomas-Fahm, dubbed “Nigeria’s first fashion designer,” was at the forefront of Lagos’s fashion boom post- Independence, when clothes were used as a means of freedom and expression. It’s her signature, contemporary take on legacy fashion that we see among today’s designers.

Take Bubu Ogisi, the designer behind IAMISIGO, which was recently awarded the Zalando Visionary Award at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Her latest collection, described as “The Wizard of Oz meets Jacquemus,” was dedicated to preserving Africa’s cultural heritage through making wearable art, using techniques like hand-weaving, glass blowing and fibre knotting. IAMISIGO is just one of the many Lagos-based brands garnering international attention, such as Lisa Folawiyo, whose colourful use of traditional cloth wax prints and beading is now stocked in Selfridges and was shown in the V&A’s Textile and Fashion Collection. We also cannot forget Amaka Osakwe, the powerhouse behind Maki Oh. The designer is favoured by former First Lady Michelle Obama, Rihanna, and none other than Beyoncé, who sported her designs in her Formation music video.

Antwerp: Quiet Authority

For those in the know, Antwerp has quietly solidified its position as an understated fashion destination for quite some time. The city’s Brutalist and Gothic architecture has been reflected in the work of the avant-garde designers known as the “Antwerp 6,” including Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester. Considering the city’s relatively small population, it’s a haven for artists. The famous Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, one of the most prestigious fashion design courses in the world, is a breeding ground for the next generation of talent — Martin Margiela and  Raf Simons are alumni of the programme. 

But it’s more recent graduates like Charlotte De Geyter, who is one half of the mother-daughter duo behind Bernadette, who are catching the eye of the fashion crowd. In typical Antwerp style, Bernadette’s collections draw inspiration from classic couture, with an admiration for construction and detailing, all used to demonstrate timeless beauty. The designs, however, are centred on the female silhouette, with the A/W25 collection dedicated to “natural cycles that define a woman’s journey.” La Collection is another notable export from Antwerp. Founded by Florence Cools and Artur Tadevosian, it focuses on minimalist lines, muted colours and intriguing tailoring, all made from natural fibres designed to be lifelong investment pieces.

Barcelona: The Rise of Independent Fashion Designers

If you’ve looked at social media in the last year, chances are you will have stumbled across Paloma Wool. What started as a 15-piece collection of sweatshirts now shows at Paris Fashion Week and has everyone on and off the internet hooked. Asymmetric T-shirts draped off shoulders, silk skirts over trousers and capri pants are all part of the classic Paloma Wool playbook, which has captured the hearts of Bella Hadid and Hailey Bieber. 

This is all part of a broader, thriving independent design scene coming out of the Catalan capital that blends Mediterranean ease with cosmopolitan edge. Flabelus’s velvet Mary Janes and Aloha’s limited drops have also gone international and garnered cult status. As has Gimaguas, which, through a combination of viral products (the striped halter neck Été dress being the first) and pop-ups, has become the Gen Z It Girl’s brand of choice. The annual 080 Barcelona Fashion Week also showcases the next likely crop of global heavyweights.

Seoul: Futuristic Fashion

The future of fashion is much debated, often with buzzwords like “sustainability” and “innovation,” and often with very little substance. Hannah Shin, however, is actually showcasing futuristic fashion. With her S/S26 Tech Couture Show, she turned to 3D printing using biodegradable filaments and AI actuators, as well as hand-stitched embroidery and organza corsetry. The result? A breathtaking blend of science lab and runway. 

Seoul’s position on the global stage has been cemented through a series of global initiatives. Dior, Gucci and Ami have all held various shows, opened new stores and thrown parties in the Korean capital. This year’s Seoul Fashion Week partnered with Fashion Council Germany, which saw a 12-brand strong delegation showcase their collections. As the world clamours over all things Korean — from K-pop to K-beauty — it’s no wonder that Seoul has become a focal point for the industry’s attention. 

Mexico City: Homegrown Hub

As tariff-related chaos ensues north of the border, Mexican fashion looks inwards, specifically towards its own capital, which in recent years has become somewhat of a mecca for young creatives. Artists have flocked to Mexico City thanks to an abundance of available large studios, burgeoning street  
art collectives and an overall unapologetic experimental aura. It’s a spirit not lost on the larger design houses like Dior, whose 2024 Cruise Show was hosted in the city, where many pieces paid homage to the emblematic figure of Frida Kahlo. 

Naturally, we’re seeing a swell of home-grown talent, developed and nourished right in Mexico City. Designers like Roberto Sánchez, who created an upcycled sequin jacket featuring his signature clown baby print for Bad Bunny, and Coral Castillo, whose ethereal, structured, feminine designs were seen in the final of S19 of Project Runway. Together, they embody a scene that has helped Mexico City leapfrog past São Paulo as the fashion capital of Latin America and take centre stage on a global level. 

Glasgow: Tartan Trendsetters

The UK is often, and fairly so, accused of being too London-centric. But thanks to fashion’s long-held obsession with tartan, we’re seeing Glasgow take up the country’s style mantle. Home to a gritty and eclectic arts scene that has produced the likes of Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Pam Hogg, it’s easy to see how Glasgow has become a centre for creativity, recognised no less by Versace, which opened its first store outside of Italy there. 

Despite the gravitas of the big designers,  the hottest fashion ticket in town is, apparently — and somewhat surprisingly — the annual ceilidh held at Fairfield Working Men’s Club. Attendees are encouraged to wear their clan colours, paying homage to their heritage, while bringing it firmly into the 21st century. Perhaps it’s best to take a cue from the stock at the Lunch Concept store and pair it with a red leather corset held together with safety pins.