A taste of summer: Londrino restaurant review

In this most dreary of seasons, there’s nothing better than indulging in a touch of escapism with wistful dreams of warmer climes. Now, thanks to the culinary talents of hotshot chef Leandro Carreira, winter-bitten Londoners can now experience a glorious – and much-needed – taste of summer at Londrino, a new Portuguese-inspired eatery in the heart of London Bridge. 

Carreira has been a promising up-and-comer in the capital for some time, having worked as head chef at Nuno Mendes’ Viajante, as well as spells at Lyle’s and Koya. However, it was a residency at Climpson’s Arch in Hackney that really put the Leiria-born chef’s name on the map, where his clever takes on regional Portuguese fare soon garnered a cult following. In December, the highly-anticipated launch of Carreira’s inaugural permanent space Londrino cemented his status as the capital’s current culinary darling – there are already rumblings of a Michelin star.

Tucked away on the quiet residential street of Snowsfields, Londrino’s airy, neo-industrial space houses both an a la carte restaurant for lunch and dinner, and a laidback wine-bar for all-day small dishes and snacks. Dishes have their roots in Carreira’s native Portuguese cuisine, though the menus evolve each week with a nod to the team’s collective culinary experiences. Plates are designed to be shared, so bring a friend or two to sample everything.

After a refreshing white port and tonic aperitif, my companion and I begin with a round of sourdough slathered in soured cultured butter, before fighting over a bowl of simply dressed yet perfectly cooked prawns – though we wimp out from eating them whole, shells, heads and all, as advised by our waitress. A plate of artfully sliced mackerel accompanied by tangy green piso is a delight, while the Iberico pork pluma offers meaty respite from the fish and seafood-heavy menu. On the side, we enjoy the January king cabbage with black garlic, although batatas a murro could have used more seasoning. The real highlight is the dessert; a huge, wickedly rich slab of grilled brioche gleefully oozing with sour caramel and hazelnuts. As would be expected, there is a multitude of Portuguese wines on offer – with helpful recommendations from the green-aproned sommelier – however, it is a shame that vinho verde is not available by the glass.

Once the coffees are cleared, wander over to the wine bar for a cocktail or two – the mixologists are excellent and know their way around a classic, though we opt for the more unusual chilli-infused concoctions instead. Decorated with Grace & Thorn greenery and hand-painted tiles in the Portuguese fashion, it’s the kind of understatedly cool design that is catnip to snap-happy Instagrammers – and come summer, those floor-to-ceiling windows will be thrown open, inviting drinkers to while away the evening on an outside terrace. Happy days.

For more information on Londrino, or to make a booking, visit londrino.co.uk.