Assisi's Luxury Revival

Looking out over Umbria's rippling countryside, it's plain to see why it's described as Italy's green heart. A verdant patchwork of vineyards, olive groves and a horizon punctuated by proud cypress trees, it's a landscape interrupted only by medieval hilltop towns. But as Tuscany continues to monopolise much of international attention, its quieter neighbour, Umbria, remains relatively under the radar.

Without a doubt, Umbria's crowning jewel is Assisi. Perched at the crest of one of the region's many ridges, Assisi, which has long attracted pilgrims, is seducing another type of traveller, one with perhaps more of a refined taste, proving once and for all that the city is more than its Benedictine Basilica.

Why Visit Assisi?

Most know Assisi for its religious provenance. Home to St Francis of Assisi, it carries itself somewhat in his image - humble and unassuming. Yet there's an arguably indulgent side. Namely, in its gastronomy - lest we forget, this is the land of truffle, wine and wild boar, after all. And while there's plenty of opportunity to indulge in the local delicacies, you can also appreciate them in their natural environments. Visitors can spend days truffle hunting, chasing after shockingly well-trained hounds, as well as sampling many a Sangiovese wine and peppery olive oil like it's their last meal.

There's also an understated art scene, perfect for those who've exhausted the Medici's Florentine collection. The walls of Saint Francis' Basilica are lined with Giotto's frescoes, a visual symphony widely considered one of the first 3D artistic expressions showcasing genuine human emotion. Known as the godfather of the Renaissance, Giotto's work heavily inspired the likes of Michelangelo, Botticelli, and Raphael, making it essential viewing. 

Where to Stay in Assisi?

Perhaps nowhere better captures Assisi's renewed allure than Borgo Antichi Orti - a former Benedictine monastery transformed from ruins into a retreat. Owned by one-time Premier League footballer and Inter Milan captain Andrea Ranocchia, the property was not always destined to be the luxury lodgings you see today. "Initially, I was looking for a house," he tells me over a cappuccino one autumn morning. "But I knew it would be better as a hotel."

Looking at the completed estate, it's hard to disagree. Born merely a kilometre from Borgo, Ranocchia saw potential where others saw a relic of a bygone era. In its modern form, Borgo has struck a rare balance: genuinely maintaining the property's heritage without sacrificing a single modern comfort. Sprawled across a collection of weathered stone buildings, much of which dates back to the 15th century, the design has a deliberate rusticity, with wrought-iron seats and antique wooden farm machinery thoughtfully scattered about. While it may appear effortless, Ranocchia assures me it was not: "The restoration took five years. The bureaucracy was very hard because it's a historical building." Before work began, the site reportedly stood abandoned, swallowed by overgrowth in what was essentially a forest.

Today, guests are greeted by fragrant herbal gardens, whose produce is used in much of what you eat. Rosemary-lined pathways spiral up towards the main house, home to the best rooms on site, including the panoramic suite - aptly named for its views of the unfurling Umbrian valley. Just one of 12 rooms, the suite is spacious yet intimate, retaining much of the rustic Italian farmhouse charm with exposed beams and a headboard that was once a grand wooden door. Below, comfort is still king, with a supersized mattress beckoning after an extra-large bowl of truffle pasta.

Fortunately, you won't have to venture far to find one. At the front of the building sits Re Tartù, Borgo's onsite family-run restaurant. Fiercely local, the menu is dedicated to the region's most prized possession. Truffle headlines many dishes, notably the slow-cooked egg, hidden beneath a cheesy velouté and peppered with black shavings. The pasta is made fresh each day, visible as guests wander to breakfast, while the wine showcases the best of Umbria and beyond - it might just be as long as the bible itself.

Arguably, though, the hotel's best quality is its view. Set at the foothills of Assisi, it basks in the pinkish halo that enshrines the city when lit up at night. The perfect spot for an aperitivo, evenings are best spent here, lingering on the hotel lawn, cocktail in hand, watching the last of the light fade. It is where I find myself many an evening of the trip, reminded that the best destinations rarely shout - or show up on a TikTok feed. Neither Borgo nor Assisi itself boasts. They merely entice with the promise of a slower pace, a full belly, and a view that makes you never want to look at your phone again.

SPHERE's Top Tips

• Visit in the autumn to avoid temperatures north of 40 degrees and the wildfires. The weather holds during the day, with temperatures in the late twenties towards the end of September, but it drops at night, as it can get as low as 10 degrees.
• Book a wine tasting at SAIO, a nearby local vineyard that offers a guided tour through its vineyards and gives guests the chance to take a crate home.
• Re Tartù is a must, but if you're looking for somewhere to eat in town, Il Vicoletto is a must.