A Tour of Spanish Wine Country

Rioja has long been at the centre of conversations around Spanish wine production. But just twenty kilometres behind Barcelona, you’ll find the quietly lauded Priorat region. Tucked between the Montserrat mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, the area is somewhat of a geographical sweet spot. Think rugged terrain, sun-drenched hills and crumbling rocky paths – the winemakers’ soil recipe of dreams – and also the perfect location for aimless meandering, lounging and hiking (should you be so inclined). For that reason, we’ve created a complete guide of where to stay, what to eat and what to do. So that you too can officially be in the know about Catalonia’s luxurious little secret.

Where to Stay 

Hidden deep in the Priorat Hills, along a winding private road, proudly stands the Gran Hotel Mas D’en Bruno. A refurbished farmhouse, complete with original 18th-century archways, it has become a firm favourite amongst Catalonian city dwellers searching for a countryside escape. From private pools and patios to palatial-sized showers, all 24 rooms boast an intimately luxurious feel. Encouraging guests to snooze endlessly seems to be the intention here.

 Despite its panoramic vineyard views and wine cellar, the boutique hotel is primarily designed to offer guests a resort-style stay centred around relaxation and rejuvenation. Relish in the three extensive dining options and comprehensive spa facilities by booking yourself in for an olive oil treatment or unwinding in the tranquil Hamam. I recommend the wine therapy treatment. It’s topped off with a glass of vino (always a yes from me), and the hydrating face cream from sustainably focused Spanish brand foosh is just divine. The ingredient base is made with by-products of the winemaking process, which feel refreshingly light on the skin.

The restored wall etchings and selection of David Hockney paintings, from owner David Stein’s personal collection, adorning the hallways, also cement this spot as a home-from-home kind of stay. If you’re looking for maximum comfort and recovery, this is where to go.

Where to Eat

Stay local by taking a quick trip downstairs to the hotel’s own Michelin-guide-recommended restaurant, VINUM. Here, chef Josep Queralt has curated a dining experience that both experiments with and celebrates Catalan culinary traditions. Taste dishes like Wild Boar with a chocolate and butter sauce, crisp-wrapped Truita amb suc, and a satisfyingly flaky pear tart. My top recommendation? Settle into a table on the patio, located right on the cusp of the hills and sip a martini as the sun goes down. Then, opt in for a blind tasting menu and, of course, enjoy the handcrafted wine pairings.

For those craving more of a gastronomic adventure then Restaurant BROTS in Poboleda is the one to try. In just a ten-minute drive from the Gran Mas Hotel, you can inject your stay with a touch of folly, thanks to Chef Pieter Truyts’ inventive menu. Delight in an indulgent tarragon-infused tuna belly or savour the full four-course tasting option, featuring skewers of smoked pork tongue, served amusingly in a mould of Truyts’ hand. My favourite dish has to be the creamy pea soup, thanks to its jolting umami kick. Though you should expect additional treats along the way – the chef is adamant that: “No one leaves my house with an empty stomach.”

What to Do

A wine tasting at Cellar Familia Nin Ortíz is the perfect afternoon activity for grape-obsessives. Andreu Ortiz, son of Carles Ortiz, who co-founded the vineyard with his wife, Ester Nin, offers guests a 360 backstage pass to the operations, history and expertise behind the family's 26-year-old winemaking tenure. From the patio, you will receive a quick overview of the vineyards, learning about the winery's unique techniques, including a harvest schedule based on the lunar calendar and their accidental reproduction of the mutated white Carignan grape. But if, like myself, you’re more keen to test your knowledge of the varying notes, then worry not. After a tour of the wine barrels and the family’s vintage collection, it’s time to taste. Guests can sample either five or eight different bottles of Andreu’s choosing, with the option to take one home. I’d recommend packing an extra bag in your suitcase. Trust me, shopping in moderation will be a challenge.

To extend your wine tasting experience, head to Porrera. Whilst on the surface, this sleepy town might not seem like an obvious holiday destination, you’ll find 22 bodegas and wineries tucked away along cobbled paths. Why not treat yourself to an ad hoc tasting at Clos Dominic or reserve a spot at the more grandiose Cellar Vall Lach. My top tip would be to follow the wine map located on Plaça de Catalunya. That way, you won’t miss any of the more hidden-away spots.

If by the end of your stay, you’re yearning for a cultural hit, take a trip to the Carthusian Monastery of Scala Dei. Roam through the endless ruins of what was once the region’s epicentre of culture, art and spirituality, taking in the lasting patches of wildflowers and majestic fountains. Spark your imagination with a virtual reality experience of the Monastery in action back in the 18th century, to fully understand its historic grandeur.