Optimistic-coloured gemstones took over jewellery for several years, but today’s different mood has created a change. The eternal appeal of white diamonds has quietly edged back, like winter’s soft mists and frosts. Brilliant colours still make headlines, but this year’s high jewellery collections balance them with extraordinary diamond designs. Some collections focus on diamonds and other “white” stones such as pearls, while the diamond watch is news for both genders.
Diamonds have caught a pre-existing mood — high jewellery collections can take two years to complete — but the pandemic has amplified it. Luckily for the industry, human moments of celebration and sentiment continue, and diamonds are the age-old way to mark them. After a period when markets were shut, De Beers has seen rising monthly sales for rough diamonds, with an estimated $467m of October sales to process in time for the festive season, a better-than-expected comparison with last year’s $550m. “The three-month production shutdown helped clear excess stock and bring the market back to life,” says designer Valérie Messika. “Now we are seeing increased prices and demand from Asia as consumers see a safe investment.” The online auction has also come of age, with the most expensive diamond sold digitally to date, at Christie’s for nearly £1.7m.