Review of Terme di Saturnia: Detoxing in Tuscany’s timeless waters

We might have it easier than any civilisation before us, yet modern life can feel like quite the stressor. Whether its traffic holding us up from our love of rushing around or being put on hold for the fourth time to ask a company a simple question, life’s small happenings can tease us daily. So when the opportunity arose to stay at one of Italy’s most iconic wellness spas – Terme di Saturnia – in the tranquil Tuscan hills, I thought, what better way to take a breather?

Terme di Saturnia - the resort

The idea here is to flit from naturally antioxidant and purifying hot springs to vigorous, repairing treatments like body scrubs or vibrational sounds, and nourishing, carefully composed meals. And it’s not just us overwrought twenty-first centurions with the wellness idea: the thermal springs, which the sprawling 120-hectare grounds of Terme di Saturnia are built around, have been welcoming bathers for over 3,000 years. The Etruscans, so the story goes, founded Saturnia itself and would soak up the mineral-rich waters in between their culture-shaping pursuits, which ranged from architecture to politics.

Fast forward to 1919, and the five-star resort of Terme di Saturnia was established, home to the natural thermal waters and an eco-certified golf course. Earlier this summer, on a blazing Tuscan afternoon, my partner and I drove from Pisa airport along the winding cypress-lined lanes, as we gazed blissfully out at golden-hued vineyards and olive groves. After a two-and-a-half-hour drive, we reached the small town of Saturnia, passing its famous public thermal springs before arriving at the grand gates of the resort.

The vistas roll on as you climb the driveway, while in the car park, the air is alive with cicadas and the gardens are filled with neatly pruned flowers. Inside, a theme of water flows throughout – soothing tones of pale blue, the gentle sound of streams, and, of course, the unmistakable sulphur scent of the springs themselves.

The facilities

The wellness concept at Terme di Saturnia rests on five pillars: specialist medicine, healthy nutrition, spa treatments and thermal cures, movement, and energy rebalancing through naturopathy. Guests can design their own schedule or opt for structured programmes such as Classic, Slim, Detox, Mind and Skin Anti-Age, available in three- or seven-night stays.

While we didn’t sign up for a full daily itinerary, we had a taste of the Detox Programme – complete with blood tests, body composition analysis, two treatments each and a tailored dining plan created with input from a nutritionist. It was enlightening to see data-driven insights – such as a breakdown of our muscle-to-fat ratio in each body part – and how we can complement these with the wealth of treatments available.

Cryotherapy was unfortunately out of service during our visit, but the mud body scrub massage more than compensated: a rejuvenating treatment combining mineral-rich Saturnia clay with expert technique, leaving my skin silken and body humming with vitality. Beyond treatments, the facilities impress – thermal pools with hydromassage jets, the Roman Bath with sauna and Turkish steam, sensory rooms like the “Cocoon” and “Hay Room”, guided morning hikes, tennis courts, and the vast golf course.

And always, there are the thermal springs themselves. The journey of the water is extraordinary – rain falls on Mount Amiata, seeps underground, and travels for 40 years through layers of rock before gushing to the surface at 500 litres per second, enriched with minerals and naturally heated to 37°C.  We enjoyed our balmy ritual each day, made even sweeter with the knowledge this is one that has endured for millennia.

The dining

Our dietary journey began before we even arrived, with a video consultation with a resort nutritionist. We were given a preview of the strict detox plan: no alcohol, sugar, caffeine, meat, dairy or refined carbohydrates. This was admittedly a little daunting, but we were all for it given these meals are designed with a refreshing cleanse and reset in mind. Breakfast was often as simple as a plain egg on toast; lunch and dinner came as small, precise plates – barley with nuts, or a delicate fillet of fish with vegetables.

The first two days were tough, with foggy heads and drained energy – the sugar and caffeine withdrawals hit hard. But by day three, we felt light, clear and more energised than we had in a long time. For someone who normally consumes probably a little too much sugar and coffee daily, it was a revelation.

Given the detox plan is not obligatory, other guests were tucking into buffet breakfasts and creamy pastas, all within the elegant, airy dining room overlooking the resort’s sweeping pool. To one side, a decadent library invited aperitivo hour with a tagliere and spritz.

For something more rustic, the on-site trattoria La Stellata serves refined Tuscan classics – Chianina beef tartare with egg yolk, silky tagliolini with white truffle, and the iconic Fiorentina steak cooked over charcoal. While detoxing may have been cleansing, we couldn’t resist succumbing to local tradition on our final night, venturing out for rabbit ragù and a carafe of red wine. Tuscany, after all, is best enjoyed with a little balance.

The area

Wellness may have been the main focus of the trip, but it’s impossible to ignore the rich history and natural beauty that surround Terme di Saturnia. Beyond the resort, the Tuscan Maremma reveals itself in layers: the rugged Argentario coastline, the volcanic peak of Mount Amiata, and medieval villages like Montemerano and Pitigliano, with their tufa-stone houses clinging to the hillsides. The Saturnia town itself is steeped in mythology – legend has it that the god Saturn created the springs by hurling a thunderbolt at the earth.

Despite the initial challenges of our detox plan, we came away with the learning we would likely feel better without succumbing to so many daily vices. Does that mean I don’t consume sugar, refined carbs, and coffee most days now? No, but our experience at Terme di Saturnia meant more. Rather than just restoring the body, it rebalances the spirit – in the sense of the ancient harmony of health and hedonism shining through.

Rates start at £300,00 per night, incl Breakfast and Spa access

Find out more and book a room or programme via termedisaturnia.it/en/