Game On: Glorious 12th Grouse at Wiltons

It's rare for a cosmopolitan traveller such as myself to be in London for the start of the game season in August, the Glorious 12th, but I was fortunate to enjoy the arrival of the first grouse arriving in London last week at London’s oldest restaurant: Wiltons in St James’s, famed for its game and seafood. It would be inaccurate to say the grouse were winging their way, as they were freshly shot on the day. Chef had just 10 to play with.

Before we get to the game, let’s start with the oysters. As I waltzed into Wiltons on a Friday evening, the main bar counter was abuzz with avid oyster enthusiasts, all devouring a Master Class in oyster varieties and pairings with wines. I had a temporary moment of oyster FOMO, but I knew I might be able to sample a few. 

While renowned for its game, Wiltons has built its reputation over almost three centuries on serving some of Britain's finest seafood. For those not in the know, Wiltons first opened in 1742 as a shellfish monger near Haymarket and just over 100 years later, it was awarded a Royal Warrant as Purveyor of Oysters to Queen Victoria. As part of the masterclass, oyster enthusiasts are schooled by Wiltons’ experts on the provenance and health benefits of oysters, as well as in the art of shucking and serving. Guests are treated to a dozen oysters from around the British Isles, a glass of Champagne on arrival and later two glasses of carefully paired glasses of white wine.

So, for the starters, my guest and I plumped for six Jersey Rocks and Wiltons legendary Twice-Baked Stilton Soufflé. It being a month without an R, we will have to be patient for the natives to arrive in September. The oysters were served beautifully and the soufflé a divine, unctuous melt-in-the-mouth treat. 

Our brace of grouse was pre-ordered, which is worth noting, as I met a lovely young medic in the Ladies’ bathroom, who confided to me that her father was somewhat disappointed that Chef had no grouse for him. 

The advice from our waiters was to order the grouse cooked medium-rare, our choice anyway. Mine was cooked to perfection. The grouse were served with all the trimmings, bread sauce, breadcrumbs, gravy, crowned with bacon atop. As sides we had a superb gratin dauphinois, green beans and spinach. The staff served it all with aplomb and in true Wiltons style. 

For pudding, we shared a seasonal summer pudding, delectable with whole fruits and not too much sponge, and we greedily ordered the Raspberry soufflé. Are two soufflés de trop in one evening? I think not, especially if shared and as good as these. 

The restaurant was full and filled with jolly bonhomie. All in all, a theatre of deliciousness in impeccable keeping with the rituals of the Glorious 12th.

Book Wiltons’ signature oyster masterclass or to sample its famous grouse – but don’t forget to pre-order! wiltons.co.uk