Is Copenhagen Officially Europe’s Coolest Fashion Week?

There’s just something about Copenhagen Fashion Week that sparks joy. Whether it’s the loud prints, playful layering or the refreshing display of a range of body types and ages on the runway, there’s a lightness to the event that the rest of the fashion calendar could take note of. The 20th anniversary edition and SS27 presentations were no exception. 

While Scandi minimalism is still ever-present, risk-taking is encouraged, nay required. This week, the cobbled streets of the Danish capital were awash with loud colours, clashing patterns, and above all else, texture – fringe, crochet, sequins, ruffles, you name it, it was there. A resounding theme of the week was whimsy, very clearly replacing quiet luxury with a bit of mischief. It’s only the start of fashion month, but if I had to put money on it now, I’d say Copenhagen is well on its way to being Europe’s coolest fashion week.

The Trends to Replicate from CPFW SS27

Danish dressing has always been synonymous with wearability. Where other fashion weeks favour sharp, head-to-toe designer styling, CPFW produces adventurous yet replicable outfits. These are the trends to steal this year. 

A Different Type of Animal Print 

Leopard print for the past few years has reigned supreme – those Ganni jeans, that Carolyn Bessette coat. The SS27 shows indicated that animal print is going nowhere, it’s just evolving. Fawn, coloured zebra stripes and python were all spotted on and off the runway, demonstrating that when done right, animal print is, in fact, a neutral. 

Fringing Everywhere 

Everything that fringing could be added to, it was – tops, skirts, scarfs, bags, jackets. What once was firmly siloed to a boho aesthetic has now been given a modern update and found its way into the mainstream. Used by designers to control how a garment sits on different bodies, it’s an easy way to add a theatrical touch to any look. 

Bigger Glasses = Better

We’ve been lost in the fog of the 90s when it comes to eyewear, with chic, thin frames dominating for the past few years. What began as an internet obsession with the giant Celine Havana sunglasses has transformed into a fully-fledged trend. Shape doesn’t matter so long as it's super-sized. 

Sequins as Daywear

Wearing sequins as daywear has long felt out of reach, conjuring childhood memories of being told: “it’s not a fashion show”. But the Danish tastemakers, as ever, have shown us just how easily it can be done. Pair a sequin skirt with a knit, or contrast with a flannel shirt tied around your waist. 

Sheer Layers 

Skirts over jeans have dominated past seasons – a look that always read a bit too Y2K for my taste. But a sheer dress over trousers? Sign me up. It layers in depth, texture and just the right hit of sexiness.

SPHERE’s Favourite Shows 

OpéraSPORT

Nature was the obvious inspiration for OpéraSPORT’s SS27 collection titled Growth – it was, after all, held in Carl Jacobson’s Garden and the giant floral headpiece wasn’t exactly subtle. Drawing on themes of continuity, repetition and evolution, each look embodied both release and restraint, contrasting minimalist jeans with tiered peplum tops, lace bodices with capri pants. The brand's signature femininity was ever-present, expressed through a soft, tonal colour palette that mirrored the natural surroundings: soft greens, pale floral hues, contrasted by deeper earth tones and sharper accents reminiscent of thistle stems. I particularly loved the model’s make-up, balancing barely-there with real orchids that were used to frame one woman’s eyes. 

Mr Larkin 

In its first-ever runway show, Mr Larkin delivered a true expression of Founder and Creative Director Case Blond's multifarious, nomadic life. "The collection is as eclectic as ever, but that's quintessentially Mr. Larkin," she explains. "The pieces are artful and individualistic – a bit difficult to pinpoint – but the silhouettes function in your life, whether for a special moment or a standard Tuesday. Every piece has a reason to be worn, always born from a real-world perspective."

Colour and texture ran through every look, but it was the sculptural draping and accessories – brooches and fringed boleros – that stole the show. Every silhouette was built to flatter, cut with a woman's body, not against it.

Taus

Although small in size, Taus’ SS27 collection is one you’ll want to absorb immediately into your own wardrobe. Through structured items like corsets and jackets, balanced with lighter fabrics and sheer detailing, it felt like an aloof approach to romanticism. The brand’s use of upcycled fabrics is definitely commendable, proving again that reworked does not have to feel dated. The “one to watch” label certainly feels accurate. 

Collina Strada

Bagging the international guest slot, New York-based independent brand Collina Strada’s presentation was one of the more experimental, whimsical shows of the week. Designer Hillary Taymour’s signature maximalist touch remained a constant through chain-mail shoes, hair tinsel and alien-esque glasses all filtered through a noticeably softer, more feminine lens this season. Looks had an intergalactic woodland fairy feel, with sheer vintage dresses paired with star necklaces and silver lipstick, or naked, figure-clinging dresses paired with statement chunky silver jewellery.