72 Hours in Florence

Florence certainly has a way of announcing itself. Afterall, it did give the world the pianoforte, opera, gelato, and more masterpieces per square foot than most cities can manage in a lifetime. 

And yet, the parts that truly steal your breath are often the ones tucked away, hidden from the tourist masses, treasured by locals So, during a recent sojourn,  we asked Florentines for the spots they love most – from the overlooked to the undeniably iconic – and, of course, we’ve collated them into our latest guide. As the late, great Anthony Bourdain said, "Be a traveller, not a tourist."

Day One

We begin the day in Sant’Ambrogio. It’s residential, with the perfect amount of chaos. The sort of neighbourhood where life happens without regard for who’s watching.

Base yourself at The James Suite Florence Hotel Firenze 1564, a new boutique stay that contrasts its Renaissance bones with contemporary interiors. Once a convent, the whispers of its past hang in the air – “Maybe all those prayers are still here,” architect and interior designer James Cavagnari shares with  SPHERE.

High ceilings and historic details ground you in the city’s history. It’s intimate rather than grand, which comes as no surprise, as the architect and interior designer, James Cavagnari (also the creative force behind more than 200 Salvatore Ferragamo boutiques worldwide), grew up in the Pillazzo, and has achieved the miraculous by opening the doors to lucky guests. With 14 rooms, each entirely individual in character, every piece of furniture has been handpicked by Cavagnari himself, celebrating Florentine and Tuscan craftsmanship in a way that feels considered, not staged.

Just a five-minute walk away is the real heart, and perhaps the truest reflection of Florence – Mercato Sant’Ambrogio. The Duomo is great and all, but nothing quite compares to watching elderly Florentines inspect tomatoes with ceremonial seriousness while stallholders shout prices like it’s a competitive sport. Grab a cappuccino at the bar and drink it standing. Order schiacciata warm from the bakery counter, and for a moment, you’ll find it hard to believe mornings like this really exist for some very lucky people.

And, naturally, this wouldn’t be a tried and true article by SPHERE if we left out shopping intel. So, don’t wander far because just across the road is Mercato delle Pulci, as it’s seasoned with antique and vintage treasures in abundance. Be sure you look out for Vintage de Buttero in the clothing stands, it’s a must.

When hunger strikes, just two minutes away is Il Pizzaiuolo, which could, with only slight exaggeration, be described as the River Café of Florentine pizza spots - and not for gloss, but for reputation. It’s the kind of place people mention with a knowing nod. The room is unfussy, the service brisk, and the pizzas are everything and more.

If time is short, or you’d simply rather keep wandering, go to the famed Sergio Pollini Lampredotto stand, just around the corner from the market. A favourite of Stanley Tucci’s and every locals lunch-time routine, their menu is simple and the star of the show is their lampredotto, a slow-cooked beef tripe often served in a crusty bread roll and topped with spicy salsa verde.

A power nap would seem appropriate, however should you find yourself revitalised, or maybe in the need of a light walk, take a short stroll to La Beast Gallery, a fairly new and popular contender in the Florentine art world, promoting urban and contemporary artists.

For dinner, head to Teatro del Sale, where the cuisine isn’t the only theatre. Their Busiate alla Pomarola and Zuppa di Vongoline alone would justify the reservation. Yet five nights a week, the lights dim and the room shifts as international artists take the stage, and dinner gives way to performance. Membership is required to reserve a table, but at just £15 a year, it’s a small price for a seat at one of Florence’s most memorable shows.

Day Two

Start your day slowly at Brac, just a 10-minute walk from The James Suite and halfway to our next neighbourhood spot of the day. Both a vegetarian restaurant and an art and bookshop, you can begin your morning browsing the shelves before settling in for an early lunch. The food is simple and seasonal and the perfect way to set off a day feeling refreshed.

Just across the river, a 20 minute walk from The James Suite, is Oltrarno. The walk itself is part of the ritual, carrying you over Ponte Vecchio, a Florentine gem for an obvious reason. On the other side of the Arno, the streets are narrower and the energy is looser. As a Florentine friend told me, “It’s the side of Florence no one sees”. 

On some lucky weekends, the Santo Spirito flea market transforms the piazza into a cinematic spread of antique linens and vintage leather. Most locals will tell you to go between 9am and 11am, and it's worth asking whether the market is on as it can change according to seasons – life really can be a roller coaster for all us vintage devotees.

First stop is I Visionari, an independent vintage eyewear store with a selection of some of the most unique and amazing frames. A short stroll down and you’ll find Recollection by Albrici. The store has been said to have the best vintage in Florence and it's run by a third generation antique dealer, so you’re truly only getting the best of the best.

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One last shop, and it's L'Ippogrifo Stampe d'Arte. The store and workshop sells the most delicate fine art etchings, practicing the ancient technique of Acquaforte. Their work has also inspired collaborative work with Dolce & Gabbana and Italian Designer Federico Curradi.

If, against all instinct, you decide to forgo the shopping, a short stroll will lead you to Boboli Gardens, a perennial favourite among locals for good reason. For those determined to slip entirely under the tourist radar, next door lies Giardino Bardini. Slightly less trodden and slightly more secretive, Bardini’s winding paths and elevated viewpoints reveal a cityscape that feels perfectly intimate. 

Practical bonus: your ticket to Boboli grants access to Bardini as well!

Time for a drink. ​​Just down the street from Ippogrifo Stampe d'Arte, you’ll find Enoteca Spontanea, a natural wine bar run by two sisters who showcase small-batch, thoughtfully produced Italian wines.

End the night at Osteria Santo Spirito, a spot that was recommended to me not once, but four times. It’s famous for its truffle gnocchi but equally beloved for its atmosphere. When I proceeded to ask what was so good about it, the response was simple, “You need to experience it for yourself."

Day Three

The centre of Florence is inescapable, and impossibly beautiful, but those who live here have mastered the art of moving through it with precision.

Begin at Basilica di Santa Croce, we recommend arriving before 9:30am, so the piazza feels almost conspiratorial and blissfully unclaimed. Between noon and three, however, it begins to resemble something along the lines of Soho on a Saturday afternoon. And, if you plan to step inside, secure tickets in advance – even the most type B of travellers will thank themselves later.

From there, go (as everyone inevitably does) toward Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, also known as the Duomo. Construction begun in 1296, but the dome wasn't finished until1436. Nearly six centuries on, we're still left gasping in awe. It's almost impossible to tear yourself away from it, and every glance reveals something new.

Once you've managed to pull yourself away, stroll on to Basilica di San Lorenzo. This was the parish church of the Medici (Florence’s ultimate power brokers), famed for ruling Florence, supplying four popes to the Vatican, marrying into the French royal family and essentially bankrolling the Renaissance itself. Yet, no amount of Medici gossip can rival San Lorenzo itself.

For lunch, we make our way back to our base at The James Restaurant. The beef tartare with Jerusalem artichoke is tender and layered, and you'll dream about the “Bottone” pasta with thyme potatoes and rich meat ragù days after your trip. 

Take a quick breather, maybe a bath, or even a stroll to a nearby cafe, such as Cibrèo Caffè.

Now that we've thoroughly warmed up our shopping capabilities, we put it to test at one of Florence's finest leather shops. Il Busetto Giuseppe Fanara is less than a half-hour stroll from The James Suite Hotel, and it certainly knows its way around leather. They make everything from cigar cases to jewellery boxes and belts, and there are rumours that the leather stands immortal.

Famous and for all the right reasons, we end the trip at Buca Lapi. Founded in 1880 and standing as one of the oldest restaurants in Florence, the restaurant has kept its doors open for a reason – and that reason might be their bistecca alla Fiorentina. Served thick and impossibly tender, it’s a dish that demands to be shared and celebrated. For those who prefer to skip the steak, their fresh seasonal pastas and vegetable dishes are just as impressive.