Hotel of the Week: Domes Resort, Athens

Rediscovering Athens

Athens is where the birth of much of Western civilisation took place. It’s arguably where democracy began, when all civilians (well, free men) participated in government assemblies, while its legacy also shines as a powerhouse of philosophy, architecture, mathematics and science since the days of Aristotle and Plato in the 5th century BC. Yet today, the city is often overlooked – perhaps cast aside as a mere stopover en route to the blissfully far-flung islands, or dismissed as ‘done’ due to its past popularity.

Ahead of our stay at Domes Resort on the coast, my partner and I spent time in the capital, and every waiter we chatted to would scribble down a list of their favourite recommendations – each seemingly longer than the last. Even if we stayed for weeks, it would be impossible to experience all the recommendations thrown our way. But their desire for us to marvel at their home city was apparent. It became clear Athens’ boundless charm and soul is yearning to be rediscovered since greater traveller pulls in the past, such as in the 60s and 70s.

91 Athens Riviera, a Domes Resort

As well as being a metropolis of ancient culture and a burgeoning food scene, Athens sits right beside the tranquil, shimmering Riviera. Just a half-hour drive away from the city’s beating heart is 91 Athens Riviera, a Domes Resort, which takes the idea of an “outdoor stay” to another level. Here, a constellation of 28 geometric cabanas nestles peacefully within feathered shrubbery and olive groves.

Its roots may be grounded in nature, but a stay at Domes doesn’t shy away from the commodious. Where glamping might conjure images of a spruced-up caravan with an actual shower, each cabana is a meticulously designed luxury hotel room that’s outfitted with thoughtful touches from pillow sprays for blissful sleep to Marshall speakers tuned with mood-boosting playlists.

The four-poster bed is an event in itself – the kind that envelops you so completely you’ll never want to leave. There’s even a pillow menu so you can choose whether you want your nightly head rest to softly follow the contours of your neck, ensure a perfectly regulated temperature throughout the night or combine support with anti-dust properties for a hypoallergenic sleep.

Behind the grand sleeping station, sits a structure refined with a step-in rainfall shower on one side and a discreet loo on the other, while the rear holds shelves stocked with any luxury essentials you might require, from facial sunscreen to refreshing mists.

Each cabana spills onto a private deck, many with plunge pools, shaded by the signature Grecian pines that fringe the resort. The remaining facilities form a connective, open-air building running from the entrance down to the sandy beach, housing a spa, fitness centre and two restaurants, with two pools and a pond scattered along the way. Crafted from recycled stoneware and seamlessly blending into the surrounding vegetation, the finished aesthetic is one of earthy and exotic minimalism.

Wellness wonders

The resort also doubles as a private members’ club, and although every cabana was occupied during our stay, it truly lived up to its secluded feel and we often found ourselves lulled into a sense of solitude.

This sense of retreat is complemented by a strong focus on rejuvenation. With the Soma Spa, pristine tennis courts and a 24/7 gym, keeping well is at the core of the experience. We even spotted one of the most famous tennis players of all time (to give a hint, he’s Serbian), while a book in our room revealed that Greek tennis star Stefanos Tsitsipas grew up on the Athenian shore.

At the centre of the resort, we could hear the gentle rush of water from the hydro pool as we soaked in the immaculate ice-blue hues of the pool against its red-brick backdrop. The serene spa offers eight private treatment rooms and everything from lifting Hollywood Fire & Ice facials to physiotherapy. We had a deep tissue massage, and I felt the city tension I was carrying melt away from the finely tuned balance of powerful and calming pressure.

I also fell in love with the silky-smooth moisturiser and bought myself some ELEMIS products on site – a face exfoliator and hydration mask – which I use at home and find deeply nourishing.

Closer to the sea, between the two restaurants, a jewel-toned pond glows with striking lights emerging from the water, while next to Barbarossa restaurant on the shore, a vast, sun-soaked pool overlooks the ocean.

The food

In true Greek style, there’s no holding back at Barbarossa, perched to one side of the coast. Each morning, we felt like royalty sitting on a grand scarlet semicircular banquette as trays of bread and pastries, yoghurt with toppings like granola, honey and nuts, cheeses, deli meats and majestically cooked breakfasts arrived in spades.

In our same, semi-covered, regal spot, we enjoyed a sunset dinner painted with vivid colours and atmospheric waves rolling in. We began with a light crab tartar scented with truffle and a fresh Greek salad alongside warm pitta assortments, before moving on to generous fish and Wagyu steak platters.

Barbarossa prides itself in offering hyper-seasonal, organic food which celebrates local terroir – from raw Cretan honey to volcanic Santorini tomatoes, while its wine list prioritises biodynamic labels and small, sustainable Greek vineyards. Greek hospitality shone throughout, and our waiter was particularly delighted to present our chocolate mousse dessert, arriving dramatic as ever in a glass case topped with a mountain of candy floss.

The area

It’s not just the locals with a drive to show off their city that points to the recent amelioration of Athens, but the surrounding area is undergoing a magnificent transformation. A sparkling new development – The Ellinikon Experience Park – is set to be the largest urban park in Europe, dotted with marinas, hotels and green spaces.

The modernisation doesn’t mean its history is going anywhere though, and given the resort is a hop away from the city’s core, it would be redundant to not visit the Acropolis or Ancient Agora. And while you’re in the maze of winding streets in the heart of the city, you might as well perch at one of the many tempting spots to wolf down a souvlaki or pastry, such as old souvlaki shop Kostas or Sovolos Bakery.

For nearby restaurants, Blue Fish serves up Greek food with an Asian twist as you soak in the mesmerizingly turquoise bay, while taking it up a level in the city centre, Domes’ restaurant Makris boasts creative Grecian plates from the restaurant’s own farm. Another elevated meal, but with its feet firmly on the ground, is Michelin Star Soil where Chef Tasos Mantis bridges his culinary expertise from acclaimed kitchens across Europe and his love of working with nature together under a neoclassical roof in the Pangrati area.

New and noteworthy

There are also endless opportunities to island hop, and the Athens Riviera is by no means the only Domes Resort to choose from. As well as hosting proporties across the likes of Crete, Corfu and Milos, last summer, the hotel group unveiled a dazzling, white-washed boutique resort on the quieter, more rustic side of Santorini, called Neema Maison Finikia.

Who's Who

It may be deceptively quiet on the resort, yet we were never far from a hospitable member of staff to escort us around on a buggy or ready to offer a drink or a towel. The day-to-day is overseen by General Manager Christina Marinou, while the cooking at Barbarossa is led by Chef Dimitris Nikolis.

I may have visited when the sea was at its warmest, at the tail end of summer, but rediscovering Athens can be a hard task in scorching heat. Its appeal stretches into the shoulder seasons – both for luxuriating in the spa, the tennis courts and (admittedly slightly cooler) dips and for wandering the ancient city when the crowds are fantastically more thin. 

Prices for a couples cabana start from 312.93 GBP