One of the T-shirts in the Burberry Autumn/Winter 2023 collection said it best. It read “Winds of change” and “Change is inevitable” across the front and snaking down the arm in bright red, capital lettering. Daniel Lee has arrived at Burberry, and with it a sense of the familiar, along with the wholly unfamiliar, including wildly clompy biker boots, shearling-covered high heels and coats so enveloping they could double as sleeping bags.
Gone was the interlocked TB insignia brought in by former designer Riccardo Tisci. In its place is the charging Knight on horseback streaking across a dress in shimmering cobalt blue, reinstated as the key logo of the house. With it a sense of galloping into the future with Burberry putting its Englishness back at the centre of an international statement of intent.