The Unsuspecting Luxury of Northern Tenerife

I’ll admit, before visiting Tenerife, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. Like many people, my perception of the island had been shaped by images of crowded beaches and tourist resorts – a destination that was, to say the least,a little over-commercialised. But the moment I arrived in the north of the island, that impression quickly disappeared.  It turns out that there is a real luxury in Northern Tenerife, which comes not in its opulence, but in its authenticity. 

Wander through charming streets inspired by colonial architecture or dine in family-run restaurants serving traditional dishes sourced straight from the surrounding earth. Hike up towards volcanic landscapes that give way to lush green hillsides, or relax in the cafés and plazas where you’re unlikely to hear conversations outside of the native Spanish. It’s easy to forget you're in one of Europe's most popular holiday destinations. Rather than feeling manufactured for visitors, Tenerife feels proudly Canarian, inviting you to slow down and experience the wealth of culture and gastronomy this beautiful island has to offer.

Where to Stay in Tenerife?

Set against the dramatic backdrop of Mount Teide, the Gran Hotel Taoro in Puerto de la Cruz is the perfect spot to experience the understated glamour of Northern Tenerife. Steeped in history, the hotel opened in 1890 as the region's first luxury destination, welcoming both literal and literary royalty, with famed novelist Agatha Christie having spent a period of time at the venue while she penned The Mystery of the Blue Train. Over the past three years, the hotel has undergone an extensive refurbishment, reimagining the iconic 199-room property for a new era and seamlessly blending heritage with contemporary design.

Stepping into the lobby, you are immediately treated to expansive views of the glittering Atlantic Ocean through a set of huge glass sliding doors opening onto a sun-soaked terrace. Look left and you’ll find the imposing silhouette of the mighty volcano (as long as the fog hasn’t settled over the hillside). These panoramic views can be enjoyed from all points of the hotel, but my favourite had to be from the terrace of the Atlantico restaurant, morning coffee in hand, of course. 

Puerto de la Cruz is an area known for its gastronomy, thanks to the nutritious soil containing volcanic ash, fertile ground for lush vegetation and high-quality produce. This gastronomical pride was a clear influence across Gran Hotel Taoro’s six dining venues, with an exquisite offering of dishes served throughout the hotel and spectacular local produce. The standout had to be new restaurant Lava, headed up by two Michelin-starred chef Erlantz Gorostiza. The small venue has space for just 18 guests. Perched atop the chef’s counter seats, we were able to experience the 13-course menu with a full view into the workings of the kitchen.

While the tasting menus at Lava continuously change depending on seasonal produce, we were treated a plethora of dishes including a crispy potato churro, a tuna nigiri made with a unique marshmallow-like base, a creamy squid stuffed with a carbonara-inspired filling and kokotxa, delicately fatty cod tissue. Each course was inspired by lava itself, incorporating an abundance of smoky, charred and fiery flavours.  The courses were accompanied by a wine flight, with each pairing explained in detail by the in-house sommelier.

For a spot of wellness, guests can head down a set of steps by the pool to the Sandara Wellness Centre, the site of my highly anticipated massage. Stocked with heavenly Anne Semonin products, I was offered the choice between two oils for my treatment: a rejuvenating citrusy or a relaxing herbaceous. Wanting the treatment to soothe me into a slumber, I opted for the subtle scent of lavender to accompany my massage. The massage itself was a peaceful affair, with decently firm pressure and calming music to add to the tranquil ambience. The hotel also boasts a fully equipped gym and three heated pools - ideal for my morning dip, particularly as the foggy atmosphere left a slight chill in the air.

What to do in Northern Tenerife? 

Explorng the Mountains 

Standing atop a lush green hilltop, overlooking the vast Canarian highlands, a startling foghorn roar echoed out over the terrain. Was it a battle cry? An earthquake? No, just our guide Roberto blowing into a conch shell in a traditional Canarian communication technique. While the shell, known as a bucio, may be small, the noise it produced was mighty, reverberating through the expansive countryside – and my bones. 

A tour of the Canarian landscape is just one of the experiences organised by the hotel, informed by Roberto’s wealth of local, geographical and historical knowledge. During our excursion, we headed up into the hillside to learn about the lives of goat farmers, including the tools shepherds would use to communicate across the island’s rugged terrain, alongside a sampling of locally produced salty goat cheese. We even got to meet a herd ourselves, with the patter of jangling bells that hung round the goats’ necks soundtracking our walk.

We were also treated to a show of traditional Canarian shepherd jumping. Developed as a practical way to navigate the island’s rocky landscapes, the techniques enabled shepherds to deftly traverse terrain. Armed with a long, wooden pole, shepherds could jump, slide and run down almost vertical, jagged rocks, as Roberto demonstrated with apparent ease.

Exploring Puerto de la Cruz

For an authentic taste of Puerto de la Cruz, there is no better stop than exploring the culinary offerings of a local guachinche. A traditional taverna-style restaurant, these rough-and-ready dining spots were first opened up by local producers in order to sell their wine easily to passersby.

We headed to Guachinche Ramon, located down a rough path and easy to overlook without local insight. Surrounded by plaited olive groves and rows of freshly grown produce, this rustic dining spot offers a true taste of authentic Tenerife cuisine. Our guide was a close friend of the family-run spot and ensured we tried the full menu of moreish dishes served alongside the house-produced wine. Breads were made using charcoal and grape skins, creamy shrimp salad packed with potatoes, garbanzos cooked in a rich sauce with fatty meats, and of course, the papas arrugadas.

If there is one thing I implore you to try on a trip to Northern Tenerife, it’s these inconspicuous potatoes. Dusty grey in colour and reminiscent of small rocks, the potatoes are boiled in heavily salted water to give the distinctive wrinkly texture. On the inside, they are soft and fluffy, served with two types of mojo: a tangy pepper red mojo and a herby green mojo – zesty, complementary condiments to accompany the buttery-soft, starchy morsels.

Art lovers will also enjoy the “open-air museum” concept lining the streets of Puerto de la Cruz. Buildings are covered with stunning visuals to immerse yourself in – be sure to check out the mosaic mural created by Fernández Padrón in 1960, easy to overlook, but a beautiful, hand-crafted attraction featuring a number of Masonic references. 

Exploring Garachico

During the stay, we also ventured to the nearby Garachico, a charming Canarian port town. At its centre, visit the glistening white Church of Santa Ana, which was first built in 1520 and has undergone a series of repairs after experiencing volcanic damage. The church sits opposite a shaded public square, ideally for a moment of respite from the sun with a coffee or ice cream in hand. During my perusal of the town, I stumbled upon Lyturgya, a gorgeous little boutique selling handcrafted incense from local woods, resins and aromatic plants – a heavenly stop for the senses.

For those with more of an adventurous streak, Roberto informed me that Garachico is one of the best spots in the Canary Islands for diving, with dramatic volcanic views beneath the sea’s surface, formed by lava flows. The area also welcomes a huge migration of whales, meaning whale and dolphin watching are also ideal ways to spend your time.

Tenerife Holidays - British Airways Holidays offers seven nights, at the 5* Gran Hotel Taoro, from £879pp, travelling on selected dates between 1 September - 30 September 2026 inclusive. Includes Euro Traveller return flights from London Gatwick Airport, one checked bag per person and accommodation with breakfast. Book by 31 July 2026. For reservations, visit britishairways.com